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RH 1964 Bear "KODIAK MAGNUM" 50# Recurve HUNTING Bow in EXCELLENT + Condition!
Estimated price for orientation: 595 $
Category: Recurve
Class:
Description Brand: Bear Draw Length: 50# @ 28" Dexterity: Right-handed Overall Bow Length: 52" AMO Model: 1964 Kodiak Magnum Country of Manufacture: United States
Here's the bow that started the "50th Anniversary craze" from Bear Archery where their marketing department reissued this exact model and then charged $695 for it! Well get your time machine out (again) and take in the beauty of this museum worthy Bear KODIAK MAGNUM hunting bow from 1964! It isn't quite mint... but it is as close to that as possible without being absolutely perfect. The only flaw worth mentioning resides just behind the leather arrow side-plate and was caused by arrows contacting with the riser... trivial indeed. Look at those beautiful limbs and the imagined flaw is only a reflection... a mirage. Then check out the prettiest riser the Bear Archery Company ever made using Brazilian Rosewood and Bubinga Woods with a vertical accent stripe using Rosewood! (Look at the incredible swirl in the Brazilian Rosewood in picture #9!) Now (for S&Gs) let's take a moment to consider that this is a HUNTING BOW!!! No one can tell me that Mr. Bear didn't love and take an immense amount of joy from the delicate balance between craftsmanship and art. This bow is in such wonderful condition that I may decide to keep it... but then again, I have to keep reminding myself "You're not a collector, you're not a collector!" . . . but then again, this is my favorite bow of all time!!! . . . and if I could keep only one this would be it! NOTE: We've had a few people try to tell us that this is a 1968 Bear Kodiak Magnum and they are incorrect. The serial number in the early 60's were not always representative of the model year. We use the medallions (coins), serial numbers and actual Bear Archery Catalog pictures with descriptions to VERIFY all of our information BEFORE placing Little Bear Archery ads. That's not to say that we can't make a mistake but we are far more likely to give you excellent information due to our access to those Bear catalogs. I have replaced the 12th picture, which was the reverse view of the strung bow, with the 1964 Catalog pic so you can see for yourself. The 1968 model, while being a very nice hunting bow, is not nearly as fancy or valuable and uses only one wood (Shedua) in the riser, while the 1964 was constructed of Brazilian Rosewood & Bubinga. Thanks just the same to those who were attempting to correct us.I spent thousands of hours enjoying Fred Bear's KODIAK MAGNUM recurve during my youth and used it to reach out to 40 and 50 yard targets effortlessly. It's bound to bring pure joy to the lucky archer who has the strength to manage it properly. I was shooting this exact model (but at 46#) when I was a 120 lb. 12 year old but I had already been shooting for six years and had developed those muscles more than most archers ever do... so be careful not to overestimate your strength. To me it is THE perfect hunting bow and at 50#, is a fairly powerful weight that shouldn't be too strong for an athletic archer to use. Please remember that if you plan on shooting downward from a tree stand that you will be more capable/accurate with a slightly less powerful bow (5# LESS than your preferred draw weight) due to the added difficulty of shooting from that position. I also found this to be an outstanding target and 3D range bow as well and easily scored 18 points past expert with it at 50 yards at the Catskills YMCA camp when I was 13... so DON'T underestimate the power or accuracy of this gem since it carries a big punch in a lightweight, nearly indestructible package! (Think of the power of Bruce Lee... size isn't everything! :)This bow sold for $64.95 in 1964, which equates to $493 in today's (deflated) dollars and THAT's NOT taking into consideration the added value of a REAL 50th Anniversary collectible bow in this superb condition! Here's your chance to purchase an heirloom Bear recurve that will thrill your family from the moment it arrives and through each new generation of archers that have the good fortune of shooting this absolutely incredible bow! Let's see... buy a "new" copy (that WILL depreciate the moment you walk out the door with it) or own the original vintage Bear Archery collectible that, with proper care, will continue to appreciate in value... that's the only decision here!Thank you for looking!Our Rating system: 1. Wall Hanger (can not be shot safely for wall art only)2. Project Bow / shoot-able but needs substantial work3. Good / Shootable "as is" but cosmetically inferior bow4. Very Good to Very Good PLUS / superior quality bow5. Excellent to Excellent PLUS / museum quality to mint The information provided below is for your education and enjoymentand does not contain any relevant information on this auction. A note about traditional archery: Most people think of "traditional archery" as standing in front of a target and shooting at the bull’s-eye at various distances, typically, 15, 20, 30, 40 and 50 yards. Some remember learning while at summer camp or in high school. How many of us actually think about walking through the woods with our super-light recurve (or long bow) and a quiver full of feathered arrows on our back and simply free-range shooting at targets along the way? e.g. tree stumps, etc. Judging distance in the woods is not as easy as shooting a target at a known distance; there's elevation and range to be considered and that takes practice to become skillful. I learned on a straw target set on a tripod when I was six years old and developed my ambidextrous skills on 25# and 35# long bows over the next seven years. Then I picked up a 46# Bear Kodiak Magnum recurve so I could go after the 160 point award (with 30 arrows) that prevented me from cashing in on the much easier EXPERT target that was only 120 points at 50 yards. At thirteen I thought I was pretty darn good but at 16 my Chemistry teacher took me onto a wilderness course that taught me otherwise! It wasn't until we hit that course that I learned how limited my 6,000 to 7,000 hours of experience had actually been.How much does it cost to have fun? Not very much if you invest in traditional archery. All you’ll need is a long bow (or recurve), an economical quiver and feathered arrows that are matched to the poundage of your bow. Then put on an orange cap, a bright safety vest and head into the wilderness and you’ll have a ball! NOTE: Just make sure you’ve practiced at safe targets at known distances first and have developed your basic skill set. Then, always know what you are shooting at BEFORE you even aim that lethal arrow! I like having a small hill behind my target so finding the arrow is easy when I miss. Then take your children and spouse out and teach them how to shoot "instinctively" too and have a great time (economically) with your family! PS: One day out in the city with them will pay for a lifetime of fun for any member of your family in traditional archery! Here at “Little Bear Archery” my son (Little Bear) and I buy solid used bows and then tune them up to make them safer and more “shoot-able” to the average archer. Upon arrival of new inventory we inspect each bow for safety and, if it meets our standards, add whatever it needs to make the bow ready-to-go for YOU right out of the box. This may include adding a new waxed string, an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer bar and a thorough cleaning of the bow and case. When we acquire a compound bow that feels too heavy to pull back (e.g. typically bows set at 65#s or higher) we'll reduce the draw weight to the lowest safe position so the archer can learn to shoot at the easier draw setting and will estimate this lower weight for each bow listed. If you would like us to raise the weight setting simply ask us and we will be happy to make this adjustment for you. PLEASE NOTE: WE DO NOT RECOMMEND tuning the bow to a lower poundage (pull) setting (e.g. counter-clockwise) than we have set the bow at unless you are skilled in this area or injury may result as the bow comes apart in your hands! It is much safer to have a local archery pro shop do this for you, which they'll usually do for free. NOTE: It is safer to buy a lower pound pull bow that can be adjusted to a heavier weight setting as your skill level and strength increase with practice. If you are unsure of your personal requirements please send us questions or have a local archery pro help you size your bow accordingly BEFORE buying any of ours. Ultimately you’ll need to know; 1) your proper draw length, 2) the best draw pull poundage range (e.g. 35# to 45#) and, 3) how the bow will be used since there is a considerable variation between sitting in a tree stand hunting for Bambi’s dad and pulling and shooting downward vs. standing at a target range and shooting straight across a field. IT IS MUCH MORE DIFFICULT TO DRAW YOUR BOW WHILE POINTING DOWNWARD so that is a great test for you and an indicator of what YOUR minimal draw weight could be set at. Strength increases quickly and naturally with practice so don't start with too heavy a pull or you risk losing control and launching an arrow far off target. Also determine BEFORE PURCHASE if you will be using your fingers or a release? This is important to know since it significantly affects your draw length. We typically start new students on a “Basic Program” that allows them to learn to shoot instinctively. We define this as NO COMPOUNDS bows or shooting / targeting aids. Typically, long bows and recurve bows are used first and we teach our students to use their fingers properly. (If they insist on using a compound bow we'll choose one that is very easy to draw and work up from there.) Once they have mastered the basic skills we support the student’s desire to move into more powerful equipment. I shot up to EXPERT level (both lefty and righty) as a child with over 6,000 hours of practice BEFORE compound bows were even invented; so please forgive me if you disagree with my personal bias for learning this sport with a non-mechanical perspective. Also, watch Olympic archers… Q. what type of bow are they using? A: Recurves. (… although they do have some incredible stabilizers and sights on them!) There are other important matters that need to be discussed but can not be contained in a reasonably sized eBay ad. For your knowledge and family's safety I strongly suggest finding youtube videos covering any questions that come to mind. For example, you’ll need to acquire arrows that are the PROPER draw length for you AND are STRONG enough to handle the torque of YOUR current bow setting and into the immediate future as you grow stronger. A cheap ($3) arrow that is safe for a 35# bow WILL NOT WITHSTAND the force generated by a 65# bow and that is a DANGEROUS scenario just waiting to happen… so DON’T loan out your arrows to the neighbors kid who may be shooting a MUCH stronger bow than yours! This is a great sport but it needs to be practiced under the supervision of a skilled archer in order to be enjoyed safely. Visit our eBay store and view our upcoming inventory of fine bows and PLEASE DO send us any questions you have. We're just getting our inventory listed in the next few weeks so please be patient and e-mail us with any specific requests. Also, due to my childhood love of Fred Bear recurve bows, especially the phenomenal Kodiak Magnum, we will be focusing on vintage Bear recurves so keep an eye out for those as well. Also, if you buy a bow from us and also wish to purchase any of our knives, then we will be happy to provide a 10% discount on any knives in our store and then ship them in the same box at no extra charge! PS: Our “Buy Now” option includes everything in our written description. If you wish to make a lower offer then please recognize that everything is now negotiable. We will automatically decline all ridiculously low bids. If we do make a counter offer then read it carefully since; "If it is not specified in our counter-offer then it will not be included with your purchase." PPS: We reserve the right to end any auction early since we’re located in the midst of one of America’s Hunter’s Heavens here in Southern Vermont and will be selling our equipment locally as well as on-line. Be safe, enjoy your shooting and thank you for visiting with us! Q&A: Q. What is a bow stringer and when should it be used? A: A bow stringer is a device that makes putting on a bow string easier. You should order one if the bow is stronger than you are used to or if you are inexperienced with the technique to mount the string properly. NOTE: Improper stringing technique can cause the bow to twist, violently dislodge the string and may cause damage to the bow and/or person stringing it. Damage done due to improperly stringing the bow is not covered by Little Bear Archery.
Description
| Brand: | Bear | Draw Length: | 50# @ 28" |
| Dexterity: | Right-handed | Overall Bow Length: | 52" AMO |
| Model: | 1964 Kodiak Magnum | Country of Manufacture: | United States |
Here's the bow that started the "50th Anniversary craze" from Bear Archery where their marketing department reissued this exact model and then charged $695 for it! Well get your time machine out (again) and take in the beauty of this museum worthy Bear KODIAK MAGNUM hunting bow from 1964! It isn't quite mint... but it is as close to that as possible without being absolutely perfect. The only flaw worth mentioning resides just behind the leather arrow side-plate and was caused by arrows contacting with the riser... trivial indeed. Look at those beautiful limbs and the imagined flaw is only a reflection... a mirage. Then check out the prettiest riser the Bear Archery Company ever made using Brazilian Rosewood and Bubinga Woods with a vertical accent stripe using Rosewood! (Look at the incredible swirl in the Brazilian Rosewood in picture #9!) Now (for S&Gs) let's take a moment to consider that this is a HUNTING BOW!!! No one can tell me that Mr. Bear didn't love and take an immense amount of joy from the delicate balance between craftsmanship and art. This bow is in such wonderful condition that I may decide to keep it... but then again, I have to keep reminding myself "You're not a collector, you're not a collector!" . . . but then again, this is my favorite bow of all time!!! . . . and if I could keep only one this would be it!
NOTE: We've had a few people try to tell us that this is a 1968 Bear Kodiak Magnum and they are incorrect. The serial number in the early 60's were not always representative of the model year. We use the medallions (coins), serial numbers and actual Bear Archery Catalog pictures with descriptions to VERIFY all of our information BEFORE placing Little Bear Archery ads. That's not to say that we can't make a mistake but we are far more likely to give you excellent information due to our access to those Bear catalogs. I have replaced the 12th picture, which was the reverse view of the strung bow, with the 1964 Catalog pic so you can see for yourself. The 1968 model, while being a very nice hunting bow, is not nearly as fancy or valuable and uses only one wood (Shedua) in the riser, while the 1964 was constructed of Brazilian Rosewood & Bubinga. Thanks just the same to those who were attempting to correct us.
I spent thousands of hours enjoying Fred Bear's KODIAK MAGNUM recurve during my youth and used it to reach out to 40 and 50 yard targets effortlessly. It's bound to bring pure joy to the lucky archer who has the strength to manage it properly. I was shooting this exact model (but at 46#) when I was a 120 lb. 12 year old but I had already been shooting for six years and had developed those muscles more than most archers ever do... so be careful not to overestimate your strength. To me it is THE perfect hunting bow and at 50#, is a fairly powerful weight that shouldn't be too strong for an athletic archer to use. Please remember that if you plan on shooting downward from a tree stand that you will be more capable/accurate with a slightly less powerful bow (5# LESS than your preferred draw weight) due to the added difficulty of shooting from that position. I also found this to be an outstanding target and 3D range bow as well and easily scored 18 points past expert with it at 50 yards at the Catskills YMCA camp when I was 13... so DON'T underestimate the power or accuracy of this gem since it carries a big punch in a lightweight, nearly indestructible package! (Think of the power of Bruce Lee... size isn't everything! :)This bow sold for $64.95 in 1964, which equates to $493 in today's (deflated) dollars and THAT's NOT taking into consideration the added value of a REAL 50th Anniversary collectible bow in this superb condition! Here's your chance to purchase an heirloom Bear recurve that will thrill your family from the moment it arrives and through each new generation of archers that have the good fortune of shooting this absolutely incredible bow! Let's see... buy a "new" copy (that WILL depreciate the moment you walk out the door with it) or own the original vintage Bear Archery collectible that, with proper care, will continue to appreciate in value... that's the only decision here!Thank you for looking!Our Rating system: 1. Wall Hanger (can not be shot safely for wall art only)2. Project Bow / shoot-able but needs substantial work3. Good / Shootable "as is" but cosmetically inferior bow4. Very Good to Very Good PLUS / superior quality bow5. Excellent to Excellent PLUS / museum quality to mint The information provided below is for your education and enjoymentand does not contain any relevant information on this auction. A note about traditional archery: Most people think of "traditional archery" as standing in front of a target and shooting at the bull’s-eye at various distances, typically, 15, 20, 30, 40 and 50 yards. Some remember learning while at summer camp or in high school. How many of us actually think about walking through the woods with our super-light recurve (or long bow) and a quiver full of feathered arrows on our back and simply free-range shooting at targets along the way? e.g. tree stumps, etc. Judging distance in the woods is not as easy as shooting a target at a known distance; there's elevation and range to be considered and that takes practice to become skillful. I learned on a straw target set on a tripod when I was six years old and developed my ambidextrous skills on 25# and 35# long bows over the next seven years. Then I picked up a 46# Bear Kodiak Magnum recurve so I could go after the 160 point award (with 30 arrows) that prevented me from cashing in on the much easier EXPERT target that was only 120 points at 50 yards. At thirteen I thought I was pretty darn good but at 16 my Chemistry teacher took me onto a wilderness course that taught me otherwise! It wasn't until we hit that course that I learned how limited my 6,000 to 7,000 hours of experience had actually been.How much does it cost to have fun? Not very much if you invest in traditional archery. All you’ll need is a long bow (or recurve), an economical quiver and feathered arrows that are matched to the poundage of your bow. Then put on an orange cap, a bright safety vest and head into the wilderness and you’ll have a ball! NOTE: Just make sure you’ve practiced at safe targets at known distances first and have developed your basic skill set. Then, always know what you are shooting at BEFORE you even aim that lethal arrow! I like having a small hill behind my target so finding the arrow is easy when I miss. Then take your children and spouse out and teach them how to shoot "instinctively" too and have a great time (economically) with your family! PS: One day out in the city with them will pay for a lifetime of fun for any member of your family in traditional archery! Here at “Little Bear Archery” my son (Little Bear) and I buy solid used bows and then tune them up to make them safer and more “shoot-able” to the average archer. Upon arrival of new inventory we inspect each bow for safety and, if it meets our standards, add whatever it needs to make the bow ready-to-go for YOU right out of the box. This may include adding a new waxed string, an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer bar and a thorough cleaning of the bow and case. When we acquire a compound bow that feels too heavy to pull back (e.g. typically bows set at 65#s or higher) we'll reduce the draw weight to the lowest safe position so the archer can learn to shoot at the easier draw setting and will estimate this lower weight for each bow listed. If you would like us to raise the weight setting simply ask us and we will be happy to make this adjustment for you. PLEASE NOTE: WE DO NOT RECOMMEND tuning the bow to a lower poundage (pull) setting (e.g. counter-clockwise) than we have set the bow at unless you are skilled in this area or injury may result as the bow comes apart in your hands! It is much safer to have a local archery pro shop do this for you, which they'll usually do for free. NOTE: It is safer to buy a lower pound pull bow that can be adjusted to a heavier weight setting as your skill level and strength increase with practice. If you are unsure of your personal requirements please send us questions or have a local archery pro help you size your bow accordingly BEFORE buying any of ours. Ultimately you’ll need to know; 1) your proper draw length, 2) the best draw pull poundage range (e.g. 35# to 45#) and, 3) how the bow will be used since there is a considerable variation between sitting in a tree stand hunting for Bambi’s dad and pulling and shooting downward vs. standing at a target range and shooting straight across a field. IT IS MUCH MORE DIFFICULT TO DRAW YOUR BOW WHILE POINTING DOWNWARD so that is a great test for you and an indicator of what YOUR minimal draw weight could be set at. Strength increases quickly and naturally with practice so don't start with too heavy a pull or you risk losing control and launching an arrow far off target. Also determine BEFORE PURCHASE if you will be using your fingers or a release? This is important to know since it significantly affects your draw length. We typically start new students on a “Basic Program” that allows them to learn to shoot instinctively. We define this as NO COMPOUNDS bows or shooting / targeting aids. Typically, long bows and recurve bows are used first and we teach our students to use their fingers properly. (If they insist on using a compound bow we'll choose one that is very easy to draw and work up from there.) Once they have mastered the basic skills we support the student’s desire to move into more powerful equipment. I shot up to EXPERT level (both lefty and righty) as a child with over 6,000 hours of practice BEFORE compound bows were even invented; so please forgive me if you disagree with my personal bias for learning this sport with a non-mechanical perspective. Also, watch Olympic archers… Q. what type of bow are they using? A: Recurves. (… although they do have some incredible stabilizers and sights on them!) There are other important matters that need to be discussed but can not be contained in a reasonably sized eBay ad. For your knowledge and family's safety I strongly suggest finding youtube videos covering any questions that come to mind. For example, you’ll need to acquire arrows that are the PROPER draw length for you AND are STRONG enough to handle the torque of YOUR current bow setting and into the immediate future as you grow stronger. A cheap ($3) arrow that is safe for a 35# bow WILL NOT WITHSTAND the force generated by a 65# bow and that is a DANGEROUS scenario just waiting to happen… so DON’T loan out your arrows to the neighbors kid who may be shooting a MUCH stronger bow than yours! This is a great sport but it needs to be practiced under the supervision of a skilled archer in order to be enjoyed safely. Visit our eBay store and view our upcoming inventory of fine bows and PLEASE DO send us any questions you have. We're just getting our inventory listed in the next few weeks so please be patient and e-mail us with any specific requests. Also, due to my childhood love of Fred Bear recurve bows, especially the phenomenal Kodiak Magnum, we will be focusing on vintage Bear recurves so keep an eye out for those as well. Also, if you buy a bow from us and also wish to purchase any of our knives, then we will be happy to provide a 10% discount on any knives in our store and then ship them in the same box at no extra charge! PS: Our “Buy Now” option includes everything in our written description. If you wish to make a lower offer then please recognize that everything is now negotiable. We will automatically decline all ridiculously low bids. If we do make a counter offer then read it carefully since; "If it is not specified in our counter-offer then it will not be included with your purchase." PPS: We reserve the right to end any auction early since we’re located in the midst of one of America’s Hunter’s Heavens here in Southern Vermont and will be selling our equipment locally as well as on-line. Be safe, enjoy your shooting and thank you for visiting with us! Q&A:
Q. What is a bow stringer and when should it be used? A: A bow stringer is a device that makes putting on a bow string easier. You should order one if the bow is stronger than you are used to or if you are inexperienced with the technique to mount the string properly. NOTE: Improper stringing technique can cause the bow to twist, violently dislodge the string and may cause damage to the bow and/or person stringing it. Damage done due to improperly stringing the bow is not covered by Little Bear Archery.